In North Kashmir’s shrill, reticent atmosphere, where the Jhelum River winds through the valley, a new sound begins to challenge the ancient rustle of the Chinar trees. It is no longer the heavy steps of soldiers or distant protests that define this border region. Instead, it is the rhythmic, metallic clatter of sewing machines and the gentle murmur of women gathered over stretched fabric. In Baramulla, once a conflict hotspot, a quiet revolution is unfolding, led by young women reclaiming their agency through what locals call “ceiling and toiling,” echoing the craft of Crewel embroidery and Tilla metal thread work. By expanding “Centres for Training and Engagement,” these women are transforming from silent spectators into key contributors to Kashmir’s economy.
Traditionally, Kashmir’s artistic heritage was a secret passed down in homes, rarely monetised by women, with men dominating trade as middlemen. But recent economic stagnation and grassroots women’s empowerment have changed that. Today, training hubs like the Chinar Yuva Centres and the Umeed scheme under JKLRM serve as vocational schools and safe spaces. At Khwab-e-Tabeer in Boniyar, nearly 300 trainees, mainly girls from remote villages along the LoC, realised that their hands can create brands, not just household chores. One 22 year old trainee travelling two hours daily says, “I used to think my life was confined to my home. Now, I see Tilla work as a lifeline, and I have become a breadwinner.”
These crafts involve labour intensive processes, for instance, Tilla Work, which uses gold or silver threads for intricate embroidery on traditional garments, and Crewel Work, which employs a hooked needle (Aari) to produce raised, velvety textures suitable for modern emporia. These centres also teach business skills, including “Kojo Coding” for digitising embroidery designs and e-commerce management, helping women bypass exploitative middlemen.
In Baramulla, its economic impact is momentous. Schemes like Umeed led to the formation of thousands of Self-Help Groups (SHGs), enabling women to save and take loans to start boutiques. Shamshada Begum of Pattan, who began with two sewing machines, has trained over 300 girls and now runs a thriving local shop, proof that empowering a woman can uplift entire communities. Women’s empowerment metrics also show impressive growth; active Women SHGs increased by 45%, over 120 new female-led boutiques emerged, and digital literacy among young women rose by 30%. This economic independence is subtly shifting social norms, allowing daughters to financially support families and challenge patriarchy.
Some of these centres are also integrating high-tech skills. At Chinar Yuva, girls who embroider with gold thread in the morning and in the afternoon learn digital marketing, selling products online to national and international customers. The internet, once viewed as a commotion, has become a marketplace for these artisans, turning them into global entrepreneurs. Beyond finance, these centres foster confidence, encouraging women to speak publicly, manage budgets, and lead teams, thereby helping to bridge years of social exclusion. Though challenges remain, like internet shutdowns and political instability, this new trend feels more permanent. This shift isn’t just a government or military initiative; rather, it signals a cultural transformation. Wearing a self-embroidered Pheran or seeing local “toiling” appreciated globally fosters resilience among North Kashmir’s youth.
All of this would not have been possible without the UMEED schemes, an initiative of the JK Government. The impact of the Umeed scheme (the Jammu & Kashmir Rural Livelihoods Mission or JKRLM) on the “toiling and ceiling” (Tilla and Crewel) projects in Baramulla should be viewed as a multi- layered empowerment engine. It not only provides a sewing machine but also constructs an entire ecosystem around the artisan. Before the Umeed scheme, girls in Baramulla villages working on Tilla embroidery worked in isolation, often dependent on local middlemen. Umeed fostered social mobilisation by organising girls into Self Help Groups (SHGs) of 10–15 members. Through collective small weekly savings, these girls form a “micro- bank,” enabling them to negotiate better prices for raw materials like pure silver, Tilla thread or high- quality Crewel wool, reducing their production costs. Moreover, Umeed, via RF and CIF, circumvents traditional banking loans. The Revolving Fund (RF) provides a small initial grant (around ₹ 15,000) to encourage internal lending within the SHG. The Community Investment Fund (CIF), a larger sum (up to ₹ 40,000 or more), on the other hand, acts as “seed capital.” Here in Baramulla, many girls have used this to set up their “Toiling” frames or purchase modern “Ceiling” (Crewel) hooks and high speed sewing machines.
Beyond financial aid, Umeed connects women with professional expertise and advanced training. It empowers women to establish Training Centres for “Training and Engagement,” transforming traditional “toiling” into modern fashion standards. The scheme eliminates middlemen and provides direct market access through the creation of Umeed Marketplaces, dedicated physical spaces in Srinagar and other districts where SHG products are sold directly to tourists and locals. Airport Outlets and e-commerce integration are also vital aspects of the Umeed scheme. Additionally, Umeed has introduced “Kojo Coding” and basic accounting skills, helping girls digitise their Tilla patterns and manage their finances via mobile apps, ensuring transparency and reducing the risk of financial exploitation previously common in the handicraft sector.
Today, as the sun sets over the Baramulla mountains, the lights in the training centres remain on. Inside, the needles continue to hover. Now, they are stitching more than just silk and gold; they are stitching a future where the women of Kashmir are no longer the subjects of a tragic narrative, but rather the authors of opulence.
akramiiim@gmail.com
