Rashmi Talwar

Rural Tourism bounties in Gurez

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GUREZ SERIES…

There is a pleasure
In the pathless woods
There is a rapture on the lonely shore,
There is society where none intrudes,
By the deep Sea, and music in its
roar: I love not Man the
less, but Nature more…
~ Lord Byron
As the litlu, litlu mules wheedled away carrying loads of maize bags, tingling with bells, I watch Gurez, tenderly walking the rope of a nascent Tourism. If not for tourism, the untouched valley with the influx of internet via mobile phones may soon be abandoned as its youth takes a flight to brighter prospects of career opportunities and villages may age with only the old staying back to fend and tend the fields, and the picturesque homesteads of the lovely vale may look forlorn and lonely. Rural tourism has larger-than-life potential in Gurez.
If one were to count- Gurez’s rural flavour is matchless. Its spring and autumn add to the unspoiled caresses of its emerald grasses and flower-laden undulating slopes. Within its bountiful and variant topography lies an exquisite scenic beauty and delicate scents. Add to this is a priceless brush with precious history that enhances its mystery.
Unique Ancient Community
Noted Greek historian and geographer Herodotus mentioned the unique Dard Shin Tribe that inhabits Gurez. Ancient Greek and Roman writers record the native Dard’s chronicles when the unique community was at the zenith of their power and influence, which extended from northern Afghanistan to central Tibet.
The robust and strong Dard Shin tribe once had their homeland spread across valleys, tucked inside the greater Himalayas at the edge of North Kashmir from Chitral and Yasin, Drass, Kargil, across the Indus regions of Gilgit, Chilas, and Bunji to Gurez valley. Studying Kalhana’s Rajtarangni (river of kings) – Kashmir’s 12th-century chronicle – British historian Sir Aurel Stein remarked -“The seat of Dards has not changed since the time of Herodotus”.
Partition slices Historic togetherness
Indo-Pak Partition sliced the Dard Shin homeland and followed it by a hostile Line of Control between warring neighbours. The Dard tribe squeezed into the remote Gurez valley in North Kashmir. This ‘otherisation’ due to Partition and the physical isolation, also protected and preserved the environment and cultural treasures of Gurez- which lay on the ancient Silk route connecting Kashmir and Kashgar (now Xingjian province of China). However being isolated, Dards struggled to save their distinct Shina language, culture, traditions, and diverse identity. Gurez’s ethnic Dards live very close to Burzil Pass, which leads into the Astore district of Gilgit-Baltistan now in Pakistan. In addition to Kashmiri and Urdu, Dards speak Shina. Their kinsfolk in Pakistani-administered Gilgit-Baltistan dress and live the same way as Gurezis.
Tourism momentum
If, in the times of lowest ever communication, the valley couldn’t remain hidden, as Walter R Lawrence wrote in “The valley of Kashmir” about Gurez in the 1890s, what holds back this beauty, from its rightful place in the limelight, in times of nano hi-fi communication. Its people deserve every bit of slice of the tourism stake, which Jammu & Kashmir or other tourism rich corners in the world enjoy.
Visionaries coin multiple niche Tourism projects – for which study of successful tracks carved by other countries having similarities in weather and scenic strengths could be indigenously adapted, for self-sustaining and roaring rural tourism. Allowing, a rare glimpse into pastoral life while supporting, retaining, and sustaining the youth, as well as the virgin and pristine beauty of Gurez.
A former Director of Tourism, Talat Parvez, had claimed that rural is the newest and budding attraction especially for mountainous regions- “Towards this end, 50 villages were identified as rural tourism villages by the Union Government in the year 2013 when he was Director. Three rural circuits were identified and sanctioned by the Centre in Dr. Manmohan Singh’s tenure of the Congress Government, in which development included Gurez and Bangus Valley. Few others included the Khag area of Beerwah, Budgam.
Interestingly, to safeguard rural areas emerging as targets for animal attacks, the government has undertaken an unusual drive of applying the most dreaded hot-chili concoction called the ‘ghost pepper’ or ‘bhoot jholokia’ – the oil of which is smeared on fences to ward off wild animals, thus reducing the man-animal conflict and injury which can be a big deterrent for rural tourism projects. A security man commented, ‘Wish this oil could be applied to concertina wires to negate cross border militant infiltration too’.
Incidentally, some rural tourism projects were given a green signal even during the years of militancy under the Government of India project for Rural Tourism promotion. Despite the lumbering situation at the time in Kashmir, turning worse in 2010 with stone-pelters, these projects in J&K displayed remarkable success despite turmoil raging in parts of Kashmir.
Tourism spells Jobs and economic upliftment for villagers
• Rural Tourism promises plentiful jobs for rural youth as builders, painters, masons, artisans, carpenters, guides, cooks, porters, hosts, providers, trainers, horse owners, gillies (angling experts), adventure-sports assistants, photographers, artists, and others. Simple villagers, who cannot afford many opportunities for their progeny, would be thrilled with a profitable stake in community or cooperative ventures of any particular rural tourism circuit. They would readily pool in for a build-up as well as infrastructural needs of the project, with government help.
• Soft Loans Instead of building new structures incongruous with surroundings, existing rural homes can be given additional incentives and soft loans to add rooms or dorms to accommodate tourists. Rural home-stays can boost the income of families, with adds-on of all meals, including packed lunches. A cluster homestay could arrange joint local live music nights, bonfires, and barbecues, as a unique package.

    CHILDREN PLAYING AT BADUGAM GUREZ .

• Cultural Evenings: Cultural evenings could translate into a business opportunity for locals and even for the likes of nomads, gujjars, bakarwals, etc. to present the rarity of their respective cultural performing arts as a means of earning . Resorts and hotels are already using local tribal artists and singers in top-notch tourist destinations all over Rajasthan. The trend has even started in sister Hill stations of Himachal Pradesh.
Possibilities of “Niche Tourism” in Gurez
Gurez is naturally poised and gifted to position itself for a variety of niche tourism. “Rural tourism has an exponential possibility of generating alternative sources of income in the non-agricultural sector for its people” feels Mahmud A Shah, former Director Tourism, who treks remote country-sides, has counted more than a hundred Himalayan alpine lakes through extensive trekking, promoted adventure tourism with first-hand experience in the entire rural belt; now as Director Industries and Commerce in addition to Director Handloom and handicrafts, J&K vigorously promotes the rural, -especially the handicraft produce, through various social networking handles, aiming to start their stories in the public domain.
The situation could turn ideal as a natural and sustainable way for rural and urban economic exchange.• With outsiders being fascinated with the story of a Gurezi home, its design, and practicality, Gurezis would not only retain and repair but also maintain their distinct architecture and exciting indigenous innovations.
Community or tribe’s fascinating rituals, traditions, and culture could be showcased as events and also during special festivals. Tourism could invigorate the pride of villagers in their holdings and deter the flight of local youth to cities and other regions in varied ways, for instance- It could support revival of lost and prevalent handicrafts; by setting up gift-shops in base camp of niche tourist circuit.
Niche tourism is the need of the hour, to project one focus and graduate and spread onto other segments. Also, niche Tourism could fill up a set of days for a particular kind of Tourism spreading out the platter to varied tastes and textures. Some of the popular ‘Niche Tourism’ circuits’ world-over, could be easily innovate, moulded and translated into a local flavour given Gurez’s gifted multi-potential.
Spiritual Tourism:
Pilgrimage destinations like shrines, temples, Dargahs, mosques, and monasteries from ancient times are often located in rural areas, to boost pilgrim tourism. Gurez’s Spiritual Tourism could mean offering prayers at Peer Baba ki Dargah about 44kms from Dawar. The spiritual circuit could include Sufi shrines; almost a walk away from Dawar Township. One is Baba Dervish shrine, sitting within a grove of Walnut trees in Fakirpora. Just about 200 mts away lays the shrine of his brother Baba Razaq in Gochari, haloed by Pine Trees.
Archi-Tourism:
Gurez boasts of charming ancient log huts with unique architecture to hold up for decades under heavy snows, hail, water, and rainfall. How are they built to insulate from near killing chill? How do interlocking logs work for it? How is the architecture built to protect inner infrastructure? Did it have dry toilets? Does it have cellars? How does the architecture come to the aid in safeguarding livestock? Gurezi homes are a unique sample of brilliant architecture with good fundamentals An entire two-day circuit could be created around the story of log huts. “Architects and Conservators Conference or Meet” would be fascinated with ‘native ways’ of doing peculiar activities. The interlocking logs are a hallmark of Gurezi traditional homes. Architects in turn could lay a blueprint of eco-friendly mini constructions to enhance the tourist experience of the stunning vale with river jetties, placement of sittings at vantage points, all indigenously created in hallmark Gurezi style.
Agri- Tourism:

          A TYPICAL GUREZ LOG HUT.

Gurez would be more than happy to offer farm stays and show their farm practices. Many ancient agricultural practices involved human fecal matter decomposing along with livestock matter making a fabulous manure mix. This practice, recycled human and animal waste to enrich the soil to produce nutritious, appetizing farm produce. I saw this widely prevalent in Aryan villages of Kargil like Garkone; which could be of much interest to agricultural studies. How temperature changes, snows, rains, hail, and frost changing seasons, affect crops, and methods adopted to procure bumper and pure organic crops should be interesting.
Unique-stay Tourism
a) Igloo Tourism Entire Gurez in a large cluster could be turned into igloo stays by dressing up homes as igloos and having smaller igloos in open spaces near homes as recreational and Photo Op places, during winters. Since main township Dawar already has a fabulous Log Wood Café, shaping it in snow, wouldn’t be difficult and lo and behold – Gurez can have its own igloo café. Add to it can be ice carving sessions, workshops, and competitions.
b) Hobbit Hut Stay- A unique stay reminds me of the habitation of gujjars in Yousmarg’s log and mud huts with grass, crops, vegetables, and flowers growing on their roofs. I witnessed similar countryside homes in Germany. Some of them are so structurally imbued in natural groves so as to use the slope to carve a home in a way that a dwelling hardly causes any disruption in the slope’s angle. In Europe, these are called ‘Hobbit Homes’, ensconced in greens. Unique homestay could brighten and enlighten tourists about unique pastoral dwellings besides afford a rare experience.
•c) Tree tops – It is a tree-house or ‘machchan’ living that could be replicated in Gurez. In Cairns, Australia, a Skyrail cruise above forest canopy and waterfalls is breathtaking. (To be concluded).
Rashmi Talwar, can be contacted at: [email protected]

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